Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Oldeworldsmith

Pages: [1] 2 3
1
Crow T. Robot / Re: Netflix Crow's Arms & Shoulder Joints
« on: March 27, 2019, 01:56:50 PM »
Day 28. The mold castings are still at only 70% or so of what I know they can enlarge to. Something's got to be wrong.

My first plan of attack: Relocate the Hydrospan parts to a spot where I can add an electric fish tank heater. It's recommended the water stay around 70 degrees for proper absorption. Maybe my water's been too cold.



If that's unsuccessful, it looks like I'll have to see if I can devote some of this month's paycheck to buying another round of Hydrospan and trying again. Maybe I messed up the A to B chemical mix. I might also try a suggestion I found online that recommends inserting plastic rods into the backside of the uncured hydrospan as it sits in the mold. Once removed, that should allow channels to form in the denser areas into which water can more easily penetrate later on.

What would be really be helpful would be knowing exactly what size & scale the real Netflix Crow's hands were grown to. ...Would anyone have a chance to hit the Atlanta puppetry museum with a ruler and get me those measurements? LOL ;D  :'(

2
Crow T. Robot / Re: Painting Crow
« on: March 26, 2019, 10:06:17 PM »
Ahhhhh! Yeah, a picture paints a thousand words... And that paint causes a thousand headaches.
But enough of me trying to be funny.

It looks to me like one of two things (or both) could be happening:
-The gold paint is reacting badly to your primer coat
-The gold paint either comes from a badly mixed batch or has gone bad and cured in a chemically incohesive way (less likely but not impossible).

Question: what are the brands/types of primer and gold paint that you used? Are they the same brand or different? A big golden rule (no pun intended) I’ve learned from my years struggling with Crow is that if you are going to use a primer coat and undercoat, always, always, always use the same brand of paint as that which your final coat will be in. In this case, Testors brand.

I can’t tell you how many precious and rare cans of Lime Gold Metal Flake I’ve wasted discovering that Testors brand gloss paints do not like to chemically bond & cure fully to Krylon or Rustoleum brand primers & base coats. You get lucky sometimes but at least 8 times out of 10 for me it would either stay forever tacky or leave surface issues like what you have there in your photos.

I can’t quote you the exact science behind it, but it has to do with the copyrighted formulas companies use to design their paints to distinguish them chemically from their competitors patents. Thus, each brand mixes and cures to a differently balanced degree of chemicals across the board in all their colors and types so that multiple coats will dry evenly on each other... Within the same brand family that is. Mixing coats from different brands always runs the risk of the base layer causing poor adhesion or failure to cure even if the base layer is fully dry.

Personally, I skip the grey primer stage for the Tupperware parts. Even after the best efforts to prep their surface, the paint will still chip a bit at some point should you happen to bump it good enough. Painting fewer “full” layers is beneficial for when you need to touch up the spots that chip. It’ll be less thick and the chip will leave less of an indentation- preventing you from having to do a lot of work sanding the surface before touch-ups.

I’ve had very good results simply prepping the Tupperware surfaces, painting a base coat of Testors (standard) Gold, and then proceeding with my final coats of Testors Lime Gold. That regular Testors Gold color is very opaque and goes on fully visible even when sprayed on the black parts. So it acts like a duel primer/base coat.

Again I’d recommend soaking the parts in the degreasers I mentioned above to remove the paint, clean them thoroughly with water and dish detergent and then try a repaint with the Testors brand colors only.

3
Crow T. Robot / Re: Painting Crow
« on: March 25, 2019, 11:54:43 PM »
Hi there!  :D
First of all, you’re not alone in having picture upload trouble. Are you trying to upload them from your phone? Specifically an iPhone? If so,I found out  the photos aren’t actually jpgs until you offload them from the phone, either via computer or other upload. The forum code doesn’t seem to like whatever Apple saves the photos as natively.

On to the main issue-
Did you prep the Tupperware parts by lightly scuffing/sanding their surfaces and/or use a bonding spray prior to painting? If not, those steps are almost always essential to getting any paint to stick to those darn Floralier parts.

If not, don’t worry! You can easily start over and remove any of the paint that’s giving you trouble by soaking the parts in a de-greaser like, “Super Clean” or “Purple Power.” Both of which can be found at WalMart or Automotive stores. After soaking 12 hours or so, the paint should wipe right off and you can try again after washing, then prepping their surfaces via the scuffing or bonding spray.

Another question-  are the Florlier  parts you got in your Bob Kit actual Tupperware?  Or are they resin cast copies of them? Because washing the parts (resin or otherwise but resin especially) with a dish soap detergent before painting them is another important factor as well. I can’t say for certain without seeing photos, but the “beading up”  you were describing sounds like what happens when there’s release agent, grease, or other dirtiness on the surface of an object which will prevent the paint from adhereing to it.

4
Other MST3K Related Bots / Re: Growler
« on: March 20, 2019, 10:03:01 AM »
  :D fastbilly1, you are a miracle worker! Nicely done!

5
Crow T. Robot / Re: Netflix Crow's Arms & Shoulder Joints
« on: March 18, 2019, 11:18:48 AM »
Been reading and following your current Crow project, well done sir !
Read up on this HydroSpan material, very interesting and dam handy it seems.
I would be most interested in resin cast copys of this current Crow, please keep me in mind, id like to help you off-set some of your cost of your R&D.
Thank you very much! I'll certainly keep you in mind. Let's just keep our fingers crossed that I can successfully achieve a decent set of enlarged resin hands when all's said and done.

Speaking of which, here's the progress report:



The molds continue to grow measurably! It's been 19 days since they started their soak and they've been gaining in scale every day. You'll see in the photos, on the right-most side, is a set of the molds I made which weren't mixed as well as they should have been, thus I didn't attempt enlarging them. They've proven useful however as baselines to measure against the growing copies. Also useful have been the cast set of claw parts (left-most side) which allow me to see how much further the molds need to still expand before they're ready for silicone recasting. Based on the progress I'm observing, I'm going to estimate it'll probably still be around another two to three weeks before they're finished. 

:'( Deeeep waiting! Deeeeeeeeeeeeep waiting!

In news unrelated to Crow's arms but still relevant to Netflix Crow in general, I've been fortunate to discover for the first time what I'm going to call the "SledgeRiprock Method" or "Bob Method" of Crow building. Having built my Crow years ago, long before Bob started making and selling his Bot kits, I'd actually never seen or sought out to learn how he managed construction of the inner PVC pipe controls. I just implemented my own method based on the knowledge the bot building community had at the time.

Thankfully, someone shared with me the instructions Bob includes with his Crow kits and it's been a Rosetta Stone (Crow-setta Stone?) for figuring out the rest Netflix Crow. As we've known, they've gone to Bob for parts just like the rest of us and have clearly been assembling their on-screen bots using his construction guidelines too- Which I have to admit now that I've seen them for the first time, are really super simple and effective! I'm sure everyone is reading that and saying, "Duh, yeah. We know."
Hey, cut an old-timer some slack!

The one thing I've been taking my time on is making sure I compare measurements of the PVC sections given in the Crow kit instructions to photo references from the show. Now, I fully believe that every Crow, even those made for the show, are all slightly different. But I did find some sight discrepancies in the lengths of piping that make up the neck and the stalk on which the soap dish is perched to what the recommended length is in those instructions. That's NOT a criticism, mind you! Just an observation based on photo-matching. We've already confirmed Russ made a number of alterations to Bob's initial designs, even though all evidence points to the fact he's still using the same basic method in the PVC pipe controls. But in order to match the best average of what I'm seeing for Netflix Crow in screengrabs and press photos, both lengths of PVC pipe that make up the upper portion of those controls need to be slightly shorter by around a 1/4" to a 1/2".

Again, I don't believe the Crow in the following press photo to be the "one-and-only" standard for his construction. But I've chosen it as my own personal standard to match and you can see what that's given me:



I can only recommend you to look closely at the photos and do what feels & looks best to you! I can take the neck measurements that I wound up settling on and post them if anyone's interested. In the meantime, I'll continue to focus on the arms.

6
Crow T. Robot / Re: Netflix Crow's Arms & Shoulder Joints
« on: March 08, 2019, 11:23:20 AM »
It's been 10 days soaking the Hydrospan castings in water and... They're still not quite there yet. It's become quite clear to me that the denser and thicker the casting is, the longer it will have to soak before growing to it's full capacity. Likewise, thinner and less-dense parts will achieve their full scale in less time. As you can see in the following photos, the individually cast claw parts have fully grown to the full size of the Netflix Crow hands. Regrettably they remain unsuitable to re-cast due to their overly soft & rubbery nature which renders them unable to hold their proper shapes in the process. The castings of the molds are holding their shapes properly as anticipated but you can see when I take them out of the water, they're still puckered in spots that have yet to fully absorb the water.



Comparing them to the full-grown claw castings also shows me how much more they have to grow to catch up.



I suppose I also have to consider the possibility that something may have gone wrong when I cast the molds. Maybe I screwed up the math required to figure out the ratio of A to B mix in the Hydrospan. But for now, I'm going wait several more days and see if the water absorption continues to enlarge them properly. It's hard waiting but that just gives me more time to focus on building the rest Netflix Crow so there'll actually be something to go with his hands...


7
Crow T. Robot / Re: Floralier “Netting”
« on: March 08, 2019, 11:03:44 AM »
I've finally found the images I needed to contribute to this topic. It looks like Netflix (current) Crow does indeed still feature the netting!

Here's a photo from @ekuska's Instagram where, if we zoom in close, we can easily see that the screen-used Crow puppet still maintains his netting:



And in the second we have a puppeteer's-eye-view from Grant Baciocco's Instagram stories taken during the 2018 Live Tour.

To me the most interesting observation is seeing that the interior of the Floraliers are now being left unpainted! Neither black nor lime gold.

8
Crow T. Robot / Re: Netflix Crow's Arms & Shoulder Joints
« on: February 25, 2019, 12:23:18 PM »
It’s been a wild week! But I’m so much closer to shaking hands with Crow than ever before. Which has to be much better than “Shaking Hands With Danger.” <<That’s a Rifftrax reference BTW. Hopefully they’re allowed here.

I set about casting the fanny pincher claws and beginning my first foray into experimenting with HydroSpan resin in the effort to enlarge them. I’m going to recklessly assume most folks here are already familiar with the creation of silicone molds and the resin casting process so I won’t waste time typing out a full, lengthy explanation of it here. You can always search for “Smooth-On” on YouTube for a ton of videos that illustrate the steps & methods better than I could relate them anyway.

The only thing of note is the preparation of the thumb/wrist half of claw- The wrist portion needs to be reduced & shortened as Netflix Crow’s wrist clearly terminates at the wooden sphere at a point closer to the rest of the hand then the original claw permits. The wooden peg you see added is the portion that will insert into the sphere after enlargement.



This was also the first time in many, many years I can finally say that I had to use complex math outside of grade school. The HydroSpan resin has a mix ratio of 100A:50B by weight. That requires you to do a formula based on how many grams of part A you’ll be mixing to determine how many grams of part B you’ll need to mix as the catalyst. Thank God there was a video demonstrating how to work that formula on YouTube as well. Take THAT, 12th grade algebra!



The results? HydroSpan when mixed turned out to have a viscous consistency, much like honey. Which, if you’ve worked with resins before, you’ll know is a bit thicker than the usual fare. To ensure success, I created and utilized what are called “squish molds” as opposed to the more common type where you would sculpt a “pouring-spout” into the silicone for TWO REASONS <<Hey! Another Rifftrax reference!

1.  The thick, uncured HydroSpan is unlikely to ooze its way all the way down into every corner it needs to via a pouring-spout method
2.  The claws parts are both very thin-walled. Any time you have parts that don’t have ample thickness, using a squish mold is better as it allows you to pour the resin into an open-face half of the mold and then set the negative on top, ensuring an even spread of material into the nooks & crannies of your casting. Here’s a video of what I’m talking about just in case that sounded confusing: https://youtu.be/WlTuDgzhTlk

I now actually believe this to be the same stuff that is used to make novelty water-enlargement toys like these: https://www.amazon.com/Growing-Jumbo-Lobster/dp/B00362TP4Q

Once that cured, I discovered the HydroSpan did not become fully rigid and stayed rubbery. This made trimming the flashing away from the parts a little difficult but aside from that, the casting was successful. The next step in the instructions are to submerge the parts in water for up to ten days to reach the full 60% enlargement.



I was shocked when I checked back in only 48 hours and discovered they were already at what has to be full size!!! It appears that the thinnest sections absorb the water fastest. As you can see in the photos, the denser portion of the wrist is still smaller than it should be while the thinner walls of the “thumb” exploded in scale overnight. I’ll still let the whole thing soak for a full ten days regardless.

Unfortunately, the next big challenge presented itself pretty bluntly the moment I touched the enlarged parts. Due to these parts being so thin-walled and the HydroSpan material being so soft, they and now super rubbery and can’t hold their proper shape worth a darn.



I don’t think there’s any way I can recast these parts to make a new silicone mold of them and not have that process fail miserably. There’s no way I could ensure the wet, slippery parts don’t float off into the silicone while it cures or guaranteeing the parts maintain a consistent and non-warped shape.

A possible solution? I figure if the enlargements of thin parts won’t hold their shape, then perhaps enlargements of the thick ones (i.e. the molds that produced them) will.



So back on the chemical mixing merry-go-round I go! Once the castings of the molds get “big-ified” in the water, I’ll have to make yet another set of silicone molds of those before I can attempt a standard resin casting of the larger claws… I have to say this is getting really expensive, but I learned a long time ago if you can’t embrace that fact, BotBuilding isn’t the hobby for you.

9
Crow T. Robot / Re: Netflix Crow's Arms & Shoulder Joints
« on: February 15, 2019, 01:02:57 PM »


Having re-circled the wagons, I've now come to a new crossroads in regards to scales and sizes of certain element in the arms. I bought the new smaller sized hardware and reconstructed the arms based on the configuration seen in the ACPA photos I shared above.



I'm now confident in the following changes to the Netflix arm recipe (again, based on the known measurement of the square dowel rods being 3/8"):

-The spacers in between the arms are thinner than I previously had used and are now 5/16" in diameter
-The spacer lengths (and uniform space between the square dowels) are either 1" long or 1-1/8" long. This may seem like a small difference but it adds up in a huge way in regards to the size of another part which I will detail in full further on...
-The size of the machine screws and lock nuts used are now 6-32
-There are 22 #6 washers used throughout the build of one arm
-The machine screw lengths would ideally be 2-1/4" but to date, I haven't found any sold in that length for that gauge. That length must then be achieved via cutting longer screws (in the case of those pictured, 2-1/2") down to preference. A shorter 2" screw WILL NOT work for either possible width configuration. I tried them.

Due to my uncertainty in the exact length of the black nylon spacers, but now fully confident in the configuration of screws, nuts, washers, dowels and lamp joints, I have found that the precise diameter of the wrist sphere is what subsequently gets thrown into question.

I built one arm using the 1-1/8" spacers and the other using the 1"



You can see by the photos that if the 1" spacer is the right size, then the 1-3/4" sphere fits perfectly between the styrene wrist joints (no nylon washers required). If instead the 1-1/8" spacer is the correct size to use, then the gap between wrist joints is now much too large for the smaller sphere- However the next size up, a 2" sphere, now fits perfectly between the joints.

So what to do? Both look okay to me just by eye. What I believe will help break the tie is seeing what a full-sized set of enlarged grabber-claw hands look like in comparison to each sphere. To achieve a set of those means these arms are now on complete hold and it's time to get cracking on the molding and casting of the hands with the expanding resin.


10
Crow T. Robot / Re: Netflix Crow's Arms & Shoulder Joints
« on: February 08, 2019, 03:25:14 PM »
Cool news update! For anyone who wasn't aware, the Atlanta Center for Puppetry Arts inducted the Crow & Servo puppets into their collection this past January.


(Photos by Gary Glover)

Just a few days ago, Brent Lohaus posted new, super close-up images of the bots to the "MST3K & ICWXP Bot and Prop Builders" group on Facebook!

What's especially exciting for me is discovering that the details I've (so far) only been guessing at with the Netflix arms... Has been totally correct!  :D ;D 8) Both in materials and in the methods of assembly and ambulation!

Most importantly, Brent was able to get a photo that revealed the never-before-seen (by fans at least) area behind Crow's wrist sphere- specifically the spot where the puppet rod enters the wrist sphere from behind.

First is Brent's photo and then second is my own:



You can see what holds the rod in place from behind is indeed a shaft collar! Like these:


It prevents the rod, once secured into the resin claw hand, from being pushed out of the wrist sphere from behind. It still allows, via the set screw within the collar, for you to take apart the whole assembly for repair or replacement.

METHOD CONFIRMED!  ;D

More of Brent's photos give us other cool details that we can see up-close for the first time!



Notably:
- There's a screw in the back of the neck coupling that descends from under the bowling pin. I have to guess it's possibly for the ability to quickly switch out Crow heads should one become damaged. Or in the Nextflix case, should the servo-actuated jaw stop working.

- We can see the model in the museum is that very same type of remote-operated jaw version as there's electric cables emerging from the bottom of the PVC pipe where the eye controls mount.

- In that same photo we can see that the dowel rods attached to the arm rods are round. I've made a previous post where I demonstrated making them using square dowels. It's always up to the puppeteers personal preference. Many do prefer round as it allows for the rod to be easily rolled back and forth between finger and thumb with minimal effort of hand movement. I'll be certainly making a new pair with round dowels now!

- Lastly, it looks like many of the joints feature washers both inside and outside of the various attachment points.

I tried doing this on my own arms but ran into a problem. They may seem very thin, but washers add significant millimeters to the width of those arms. It all adds up quickly and throws off the sizing. Plus, I had never seen a photo of a screen-used Crow that was detailed enough to 100% confirm there were indeed washers present. At least now we can put that suspicion to rest. What this tells me now, is that the black spacers in-between the joints and possibly even the screws that are inside them, may indeed not be stock-sized. I already had them figured for slight alteration in lengths but it looks like that alteration could be even more significant than I thought.

You see, it's all based on the side-by-side foam insulation tubes and the wrist sphere. Those items dictate a fixed width between the dowels, joints and spacers. I'll have to look again at what needs to be done to resize those later elements while allowing for the extra inclusion of all those washers.


11
Crow T. Robot / Re: Netflix Crow's Arms & Shoulder Joints
« on: January 18, 2019, 02:06:01 PM »
I've been experiencing an unwanted but unavoidable delay in getting to Crow's new hands. So in the meantime, I think it's time I shared my specs for the arms so you can get started on them for yourselves if you're inclined to do so!

My method for determining the measurements came both from available photos of Crow found online, and from my own Live Tour photos where I was able to get better profile angles on them. What you do is scale the image of a ruler to an object of known size nearest in proximity to the unknown-sized part you want to measure. In this case, the known parts were the lamp joints and more easily, the diameter of the cylindrical foam insulation tubes. Once the ruler is scaled and consistently giving you the correct measurement of the in-hand, real-world object in multiple areas of the photo, it's time to use it to measure the unknown parts. Here's a screen grab to give you an idea of how that works:



I cross-referenced those with other images of Crow and found the results consistent. Could they still be slightly off? I'm afraid that in using this method, one can never say with 100% surety these measurements are flawless. It's not a good way of getting tiny, specific results. For example, determining smaller fractions like 1/8"s or 1/16"s. But since I find these bots have rarely used fractioned measurements lower than 1/4" in the scratch-fabricated parts of their construction in the past, I feel fairly confident in these findings. My Netflix arms look pretty dang spot-on to me. Plus all the found parts that have to work in conjunction with the pieces I fabricated from raw materials also worked together perfectly.

So without further blabbering, here's my recipe for the Netflix arms with corresponding item description:

>>NOTE: AS OF FEBRUARY 2019, DUE TO BETTER REFERENCE PHOTOS COMING TO LIGHT, THIS ITEM LIST HAS BEEN REVISED AND SEVERAL ITEMS IN IT EXCHANGED FOR MORE ACCURATE ONES. AN UPDATE WITH THE NEW, MORE ACCURATE PARTS LIST WILL BE POSTED SOON<<
 



NOTE: This is a list of pieces required for ONE arm alone. All listed quantities must be doubled to make TWO arms.

ALSO: This recipe will give you the parts to make arms that are in the configuration of "Tour Crow" and "Promo Crow" which I chose as my personal favorite to replicate. See my second post in this thread for specifics on what makes them different from the other observed variations which you may find you prefer instead.


A.   Two sections of foam insulation tubing cut to 3.5”
B.   Two sections of foam insulation tubing cut to 4.5”
C.   Six Round 30mm Nylon Spacers (originally 1-1/4” in length) sanded down to 1-3/16”
D.   Three Round 30mm Nylon Spacers cut to 3/8” in length
E.   Four Round 30mm Nylon Spacers cut to ¼” in length
F.   Two standard 8-32 black nylon washers (30mm OD)
G.   Three 8-32, ¾” length bolts (unaltered length)
H.   Two 8-32 bolts custom cut to 2-1/8” in length
I.   Six 8-32, bolts custom cut to 2-3/8” in length
J.   Two 3/8” Square wooden dowels cut to 7-1/2” in length
K.   Two 3/8” Square wooden dowels cut to 7” in length
L.   Four 3/8” Square wooden dowels cut to 6” in length
M.   Resin cast lamp housing “shoulder” from Sledge Riprock’s eBay parts store
N.   1-¾” Diameter wooden sphere (sometimes simply labeled as a 'bead')
O.   Regular Crow-style ribbed rubber tubing (cut to 7 or 5 ribs, depending on your version preference)
P.   1-3/4” x 1-9/16” x 3/32” #38 rubber O-Ring
Q.   Eight 8-32 “Nyloc” aka Nylon Insert Lock nuts
R.   One 8-32 Hex Nut
S.   Pair of “upper shoulder” lamp joints (original metal, resin re-casts or styrene replicas)
T.   Pair of “elbow” lamp joints (original metal, resin re-casts or styrene replicas)
U.   Pair of custom, styrene “wrist” joints*

* Holes drilled in the styrene which will brace the wrist spheres must be smaller than the 3/8” bolts so that said bolts can be securely threaded into them vs. the other holes that will be drilled out larger to allow the longer 3/8” bolts to loosely slide into them. I personally recommend fabricating your own styrene versions as opposed to the resin ones as they will be much stronger and less prone to cracking when you thread the bolts in and out of them repeatedly during construction.

I have also been able to determine the measurements and parts for making Crow's new Netflix legs. I'd like to put them to the test in prototype form first though to make sure they're working and look correct. Happy building!

12
Other MST3K Related Bots / Re: Growler
« on: January 14, 2019, 11:06:39 AM »
I received the Bauer gloves this weekend, so here's a photo dump of them and my assessment of their accuracy.



Observations:
I really do think these are a found-part match! The shapes are all present and correct to the screen used version in as many photos and screenshots as I've been able to observe.

Like most hockey gloves, movement in the fingers is possible, but doesn't provide a large amount of movement. The main digits are easiest to move (and decently tickle a keyboard) but the thumb is as useless for broad motion as I had guessed- It's only ambulation possible being used for pressing inward to the palm.

They are HUGE! I see that they come in slightly different sizes. The pair I found say they are 15"-38cm. I have no idea how we'd discover what size on-screen Growler uses as it's printed on the inside of the cuff but I'm hoping it's safe to say that most of the adult sized gloves are fairly close in scale to each other.

I'm certain the gloves used for the show are the all-black variety. That makes the palm sections already dyed black and the need to paint over bright pin-striping in the cracks between the finger foam moot. But it unfortunately looks like it's going to take an act of good fortune to find a fully black pair -or any pair- for that matter.

The biggest concern for me and the no.1 telltale detail that these are the real deal and that they kept the gloves as-is was going to be found with those goofy thumbs.

This photo highlights the area in which the thumb rests within the glove and how that then attaches to the large thumb guard with a "fabric loop."



Next are some screengrabs where you can indeed see the same thick thumb guard and the loops!



The next question I have is if the large wrist guard (the part bears the large "BaUeR" logo on it) is still present on the puppet as well. The bad part is that I can't find any photos or angles of his hands on-screen that give me complete satisfaction that it's there... Except for maybe this one from PuppetGarage's Instagram:



Now this is "Shadow Growler" (Timmy Growler?) and we've seen that the shadow versions can sometimes vary slightly from the regular versions. Yet, when we raise the brightness on the photo we can not only see that the wrist guard is still present (red outline), but that it's attached to the tube arms with bolts and washers in exactly the same place where I now know the rest of the glove should still exist (blue outline). Which means, beyond being painted and re-colored, the gloves are probably not modified in any other way from their off-the-shelf state!

Of course the other obvious dead-giveaway that the wrist guard is present is that Shadow Growler still sports the white letters of the Bauer logo!  ;)



I can also confirm that the gloves' large openings and flaps at the base of the palm area make it ideal for puppeteering with your arm inserted from below- while still allowing plenty of space above your own wrist for the arm-tubing to be attached.

So again, I think this model of hockey glove is indeed likely confirmed!

13
Other MST3K Related Bots / Re: Growler
« on: January 09, 2019, 09:48:30 AM »
No kidding! :o

I found a pair on eBay though for $80.00. I realize sourcing bot parts has never been a cheap hobby and that's still steep in my opinion, but not nearly as painful as $200. So I decided to take one for the team and buy them. They look correct but the only way to know for sure is to examine them in-hand. If they aren't the gloves we're all looking for, at least we'll know. I've lost money on false alarm parts before so I won't cry... Too much. I'll post pics when they arrive.


14
Other MST3K Related Bots / Re: Growler
« on: January 08, 2019, 02:09:21 PM »
Brilliant connection fastbilly1! I decided to try and ID the model & brand of gloves that we can see in the prototyping image from Instagram. I think I did find them! Though it's a bit hard to say if these model of gloves made it all the way through to the final puppet or not. I have to try and find some better images of Growler's hands but the thumbs of the hockey gloves seem somewhat useless to me for movement if they were left unaltered from their off-the-shelf state.

In the first image I raised the brightness of the glove in the Instagram image to get a better look at the shape of the ridges and markings on the back of the gloves. Also, after some digging I confirmed that what I thought could be the letters "e A" printed on the wrist strap are "e R," just obscured by the duct tape. Which does indeed make them "Bauer" brand, same as the knee pads that make up his shoulders:



The second image is a pair I found via Google image searching that seem to have the same back-of-hand, foam-guard shapes with light grey pin-striping as seen in the prototype photo. They are Bauer Vapor x60 SR hockey gloves.



The only sales pages I could find for that model feature them in the same shape, but in different colors and with bright white pin-striping. Seeing as how they eventually become green, their original colors likely don't matter. However I couldn't find any web stores that still had them in stock. Guess it's time for eBay hunting!

A couple store links:
https://www.hockeyworld.com/BAUER-Vapor-X60-Hockey-Glove-Sr
https://discounthockey.com/products/bauer-vapor-x60-hockey-gloves-senior
Looks like Amazon (as of this posting) has a pair but at that price, NO THANK YOU SIRS:
https://www.amazon.com/Bauer-Senior-Vapor-X60-Glove/dp/B00XOU0X32

15
Other MST3K Related Bots / Re: Waverly
« on: January 04, 2019, 07:57:42 PM »
That would be fantastic if you can send even that half piece to Ron! The 3D scans will only serve as a labor-saving starting point on the parts anyway. I was actually doing a photo-layered comparison today to a picture you posted of your halved, green mouth piece over a similar profile photo of Waverly. It’s definitely been manipulated from the original. The lengths of the square and round  extrusions are different on the final and the top part of the “beak” has been modeled to be slightly wider than the bottom just as I suspected.

Manipulating those changes on a scanned model that we can quickly align to the X,Y,Z axes will be easier than trying to model one anew from photos that don’t give us perfect profile angles to work from.

Been slowly teaching myself Blender in anticipation of working on the 3D scanned parts... Mostly because I don't have CAD and Blender's free.


Pages: [1] 2 3