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Topics - fkane123

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Parts Sourcing / Love Seat on EBay
« on: July 23, 2017, 05:37:56 AM »
I'm not entirely sure this is the right car seat for Gypsy, but I think it may be:

Not cheap, but the first hit I've seen in years of monitoring EBay for this.

Any opinions on if this is the right one? If so, feel free to snatch it up - I don't really have room for the girl in my house, and something this rare needs to go to someone who can display her proudly!

Crow T. Robot / A new Crow is born.
« on: January 17, 2015, 11:14:09 AM »
Not being totally happy with my first attempt, I had another go at it. This one I like :)

And, he's sturdy enough for real action. Thanks for everyone's help on this board!

Crow T. Robot / BBI-style eye control
« on: October 05, 2014, 08:30:30 AM »
I'm planning a crow that could pass for a real BBI one, so I'm trying to adhere to the "Bot Building Booklet" as much as possible. But one thing I don't grok is the control mechanism at the bottom of the whole mess.

The booklet describes using 3/4" PVC (not CPVC) that anchors to the body at the top tray, and a 1/2" PVC rod extending through that for the neck, which gets anchored to the bowling pin head. Within the 1/2" PVC is a 3/8" rod anchored to the eye control wheel.

What baffles me is how the control "popsicle stick" works at the bottom of all this. They say to cut a 1 1/4" wide aperture through the outer 3/4" rod, and a 1/4" wide aperture through the 1/2" rod, through which a 1/4" wide stick goes that is screwed to the inner rod in its center, acting as a fulcrum. Rocking the stick moves the eyes up and down - I get that. Moving the stick left and right, however, will move the entire head and neck as it's described. Assuming that 3/8" eye rod is just floating above all this somewhere, I guess the tension of the strings will sort of move the eyes along with the head - maybe.

So, this construction implies that the eyes cannot be moved left and right independently from the head! The eyes rotate only through the control strings for up/down motion, so they should loosely follow the direction of the head, and probably wouldn't appear to be fixed in direction in practice. So, I can see how this simplifies control of Crow considerably - one stick does it all, and the motion of the neck relative to the body is limited mechanically which is also nice. But has anyone actually tried this? Does it work in practice, or is the booklet just wrong? Anyone ever see Crow's eyes moving left and right while his neck is stationary in the show?

The relevant booklet part is at the end of "crow page 3" and start of "crow page 4":


Crow T. Robot / Beak elastic
« on: September 09, 2014, 08:47:08 AM »
According to the bot-builder's guide, Crow's beak is held together by an elastic cord looped through two holes in each of the top and bottom beak and tied together.

While this is a great way to make sure it stays together, it's pretty unsightly having a black knot underneath the beak. Looking closely at the host segments on the Manos DVD, I don't see any evidence of the cord coming through the top or bottom beak. Actually I can't see the cord at all. Was the beak closed using a hot-glued elastic band inside the beak after some point, or is it just held together with dark magic?

Crow T. Robot / My Golden Spider-Duck
« on: August 24, 2014, 05:12:41 PM »
You know you want him, baby.

Things I learned while making him:

  • 6 cans of gold metal flake is just barely enough. You will spend a week doing touch-ups after you think you're done, no matter how careful you are.
  • People are not kidding when they say that paint runs like a race horse. Lots of light coats - resist the temptation to go faster. And be sure to let pieces dry completely before flipping them over!!
  • I bought a pack of otherwise useless crown bottom-injected bowling pins to practice on. It took about 3 of them before I got it right and was ready to move on to the Empire pin. Highly recommended.
  • I'm not sure gold primer actually exists any more. I ordered some online but it turned out to be clear but in a gold can. Clear primer does not cut it with the gold metal flake paint - that stuff is translucent even after multiple coats.
  • As recommended from this board, those step cone drill bits are super handy.
  • If you're planning to screw the Floralier together, dry-fit this early on. The act of screwing them can throw your control rod holes out of alignment, and you'd rather deal with that sooner than later.
  • The bottom half of his beak wanted very badly to "compress" and not close properly. After installing his rubber bands, I taped it shut in the position I wanted for a few days. It seems to have helped - the plastic seems to "remember" this somehow. The tip on this board about using a strip of leather for the beak hinge also worked well - if it's securely screwed and glued in place, it will help it close in the correct position.
  • Think ahead of time about his base. Having one makes him easier to work with, and as you can see mine was kind of an afterthought.
  • Don't bother getting a real Schwartz Bros soap dish, unless you're going for KTMA crow. I got one, and found it was too thick to provide proper eye clearance or to work with easily - plus it has a big plastic flower that would need to be ground off. Just buy the vacuform copy.
  • If you don't have a Dremel, get one. Cutting the slot for the eye control lever is pretty much impossible otherwise.
  • Cuts from X-Acto blades hurt for about a week.

The gnip-gnop balls, hockey mask, rubber tubing (from an old gas mask, in my case) and Floraliers were found by me, but credit goes to for the other parts.

His friend in the background was recently at Conjure in Orlando where he got signed by Joel :) Hopefully he'll be back here sometime for Crow.

Thanks to the folks on this board for their advice!

Crow T. Robot / Hole in the pin
« on: August 09, 2014, 03:29:37 PM »
Any tips on getting a clean hole through the pin for the control rod?

I bought a set of bottom-injected crown pins to practice on, and let's just say my first attempt with a spade bit didn't end well!

I've heard a dremel will just melt the plastic. How about a hole saw? Or lots of little pilot holes with a drill and a sharp XActo? What techniques have worked well for you guys?

Trying to get this down to a science before I attempt cutting the Empire pin.


Crow T. Robot / Little details...
« on: July 29, 2014, 03:19:55 PM »
Just finished up a great Tom Servo in time for an autograph with Joel this coming weekend! Already, I'm collecting parts for Crow to keep him company.

A couple of little questions:

- I have an original XL7 FG mask. It has a clippy thing in the middle of the top that rotates, as well as a foam chin pad. Are both of these things normally removed?

- I found what I thought was an original soap dish, although the flower design looks different from the original KTMA soap dish pictures I've seen. So, what's the right thing to do about the flower anyhow? I've never noticed it on Crow's eye cowl. Did they smooth it out as part of the vacuforming process, or is it just facing down where the camera will never see it?


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