Recent Posts

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 10
11
Bot Building - General Discussion / Re: Gypsy Reference
« Last post by Bucky Cat on April 22, 2019, 07:54:43 PM »
Any movement on scanning the seat?  I've been really, really, really eager to build myself a Gypsy.

Ready to throw some money at someone.

Cheers,

Ted.
12
MST3K Related Props / Ardy
« Last post by fastbilly1 on April 16, 2019, 09:11:46 PM »
Somehow we missed an Ardy breakdown here.  We have two distinct versions one for each season.
S1 Ardy:

No idea on parts, if I had to guess it is a plastic hazmat suit with some of the material off the back over a hat or helmet to give the helmet its shape.

S2 Ardy:

S2 Ardy's helmet is a Sandblasting helmet that is rebranded alot:
https://www.amazon.com/YaeKoo-Supplied-Sandblast-Sandblasting-Protector/dp/B06WW9ZG2V
And what looks like a generic Beekeeping suit:
https://www.amazon.com/Ovovo-Cotton-Professional-Protect-Beekeeping/dp/B0714J3DPJ/
Harness is likely a Dickies Work Gear 57077 in black:
https://www.amazon.com/Dickies-Work-Gear-Carpenters-Suspenders/dp/B00GBR9PHA/
13
Gypsy / Re: Gypsy reproduction car seats?
« Last post by squidsicle on April 16, 2019, 06:34:21 PM »
that was my intention.
still waiting on someone with a seat to provide ref photos OR allow me to borrow it to scan...
14
Gypsy / Re: Gypsy reproduction car seats?
« Last post by taorama on April 13, 2019, 08:46:52 PM »
For the love of god. If someone has a seat, scan it and post the scan on thingiverse. You could 3d-print it in sections if you had to, join the sections, paint it, and be done. No it's not the simplest project, but it's extremely doable and there's no other source. And scanning doesn't sacrifice an original seat! For that matter, ALL the parts of ALL the bots should be scanned and available as 3D print files by now.
15
Gypsy / Re: Gypsy reproduction car seats?
« Last post by Gamer1st on April 12, 2019, 05:48:02 PM »
Still wanting/needing one.
Someone has to do this at some point.
The OP mentioned them being ďeconomicalĒ. Hell, Iíd be happy with nearly affordable at this point.
Iím really regretting unknowingly letting my first Gypsy get tossed by someone who ďhelpedĒ me move back about 18 years ago. (Though you take what help you can get when youíre in a wheelchair.)
16
What's going on! / Re: Year 9.... (if you can believe it)
« Last post by shotts63 on April 04, 2019, 05:59:07 PM »
Thank you Ron!!!
17
Photos Galore! / Re: Crow Servo experimenting
« Last post by Ron on April 03, 2019, 08:46:26 PM »
Love it!
18
What's going on! / Year 9.... (if you can believe it)
« Last post by Ron on April 03, 2019, 08:45:48 PM »
Welcome to Year 9!  Thank you to everyone for keeping the board alive with your comments, discoveries, and friendship!
19
Crow T. Robot / Re: Netflix Crow's Arms & Shoulder Joints
« Last post by Oldeworldsmith on March 27, 2019, 01:56:50 PM »
Day 28. The mold castings are still at only 70% or so of what I know they can enlarge to. Something's got to be wrong.

My first plan of attack: Relocate the Hydrospan parts to a spot where I can add an electric fish tank heater. It's recommended the water stay around 70 degrees for proper absorption. Maybe my water's been too cold.



If that's unsuccessful, it looks like I'll have to see if I can devote some of this month's paycheck to buying another round of Hydrospan and trying again. Maybe I messed up the A to B chemical mix. I might also try a suggestion I found online that recommends inserting plastic rods into the backside of the uncured hydrospan as it sits in the mold. Once removed, that should allow channels to form in the denser areas into which water can more easily penetrate later on.

What would be really be helpful would be knowing exactly what size & scale the real Netflix Crow's hands were grown to. ...Would anyone have a chance to hit the Atlanta puppetry museum with a ruler and get me those measurements? LOL ;D  :'(
20
Crow T. Robot / Re: Painting Crow
« Last post by Oldeworldsmith on March 26, 2019, 10:06:17 PM »
Ahhhhh! Yeah, a picture paints a thousand words... And that paint causes a thousand headaches.
But enough of me trying to be funny.

It looks to me like one of two things (or both) could be happening:
-The gold paint is reacting badly to your primer coat
-The gold paint either comes from a badly mixed batch or has gone bad and cured in a chemically incohesive way (less likely but not impossible).

Question: what are the brands/types of primer and gold paint that you used? Are they the same brand or different? A big golden rule (no pun intended) Iíve learned from my years struggling with Crow is that if you are going to use a primer coat and undercoat, always, always, always use the same brand of paint as that which your final coat will be in. In this case, Testors brand.

I canít tell you how many precious and rare cans of Lime Gold Metal Flake Iíve wasted discovering that Testors brand gloss paints do not like to chemically bond & cure fully to Krylon or Rustoleum brand primers & base coats. You get lucky sometimes but at least 8 times out of 10 for me it would either stay forever tacky or leave surface issues like what you have there in your photos.

I canít quote you the exact science behind it, but it has to do with the copyrighted formulas companies use to design their paints to distinguish them chemically from their competitors patents. Thus, each brand mixes and cures to a differently balanced degree of chemicals across the board in all their colors and types so that multiple coats will dry evenly on each other... Within the same brand family that is. Mixing coats from different brands always runs the risk of the base layer causing poor adhesion or failure to cure even if the base layer is fully dry.

Personally, I skip the grey primer stage for the Tupperware parts. Even after the best efforts to prep their surface, the paint will still chip a bit at some point should you happen to bump it good enough. Painting fewer ďfullĒ layers is beneficial for when you need to touch up the spots that chip. Itíll be less thick and the chip will leave less of an indentation- preventing you from having to do a lot of work sanding the surface before touch-ups.

Iíve had very good results simply prepping the Tupperware surfaces, painting a base coat of Testors (standard) Gold, and then proceeding with my final coats of Testors Lime Gold. That regular Testors Gold color is very opaque and goes on fully visible even when sprayed on the black parts. So it acts like a duel primer/base coat.

Again Iíd recommend soaking the parts in the degreasers I mentioned above to remove the paint, clean them thoroughly with water and dish detergent and then try a repaint with the Testors brand colors only.
Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 10