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21
Crow T. Robot / Re: Painting Crow
« Last post by Oldeworldsmith on March 26, 2019, 10:06:17 PM »
Ahhhhh! Yeah, a picture paints a thousand words... And that paint causes a thousand headaches.
But enough of me trying to be funny.

It looks to me like one of two things (or both) could be happening:
-The gold paint is reacting badly to your primer coat
-The gold paint either comes from a badly mixed batch or has gone bad and cured in a chemically incohesive way (less likely but not impossible).

Question: what are the brands/types of primer and gold paint that you used? Are they the same brand or different? A big golden rule (no pun intended) Iíve learned from my years struggling with Crow is that if you are going to use a primer coat and undercoat, always, always, always use the same brand of paint as that which your final coat will be in. In this case, Testors brand.

I canít tell you how many precious and rare cans of Lime Gold Metal Flake Iíve wasted discovering that Testors brand gloss paints do not like to chemically bond & cure fully to Krylon or Rustoleum brand primers & base coats. You get lucky sometimes but at least 8 times out of 10 for me it would either stay forever tacky or leave surface issues like what you have there in your photos.

I canít quote you the exact science behind it, but it has to do with the copyrighted formulas companies use to design their paints to distinguish them chemically from their competitors patents. Thus, each brand mixes and cures to a differently balanced degree of chemicals across the board in all their colors and types so that multiple coats will dry evenly on each other... Within the same brand family that is. Mixing coats from different brands always runs the risk of the base layer causing poor adhesion or failure to cure even if the base layer is fully dry.

Personally, I skip the grey primer stage for the Tupperware parts. Even after the best efforts to prep their surface, the paint will still chip a bit at some point should you happen to bump it good enough. Painting fewer ďfullĒ layers is beneficial for when you need to touch up the spots that chip. Itíll be less thick and the chip will leave less of an indentation- preventing you from having to do a lot of work sanding the surface before touch-ups.

Iíve had very good results simply prepping the Tupperware surfaces, painting a base coat of Testors (standard) Gold, and then proceeding with my final coats of Testors Lime Gold. That regular Testors Gold color is very opaque and goes on fully visible even when sprayed on the black parts. So it acts like a duel primer/base coat.

Again Iíd recommend soaking the parts in the degreasers I mentioned above to remove the paint, clean them thoroughly with water and dish detergent and then try a repaint with the Testors brand colors only.
22
Crow T. Robot / Re: Painting Crow
« Last post by Alex22 on March 26, 2019, 02:00:05 PM »
Yeah I think the iPhone upload was the issue. Hopefully it works from my laptop.

So yeah I did scuff the surfaces with fine sandpaper, clean them with multi-surface windex and painter's tack, and use a gray primer before painting. The rest of the pieces have turned out fine. It's just these three pieces with the shinier luster that look a little grainy. I'm not sure if they're resin or tupperware. Being a bit shinier, I'd imagine they're tupperware.

Thanks for your help!
23
Crow T. Robot / Re: Painting Crow
« Last post by Oldeworldsmith on March 25, 2019, 11:54:43 PM »
Hi there!  :D
First of all, youíre not alone in having picture upload trouble. Are you trying to upload them from your phone? Specifically an iPhone? If so,I found out  the photos arenít actually jpgs until you offload them from the phone, either via computer or other upload. The forum code doesnít seem to like whatever Apple saves the photos as natively.

On to the main issue-
Did you prep the Tupperware parts by lightly scuffing/sanding their surfaces and/or use a bonding spray prior to painting? If not, those steps are almost always essential to getting any paint to stick to those darn Floralier parts.

If not, donít worry! You can easily start over and remove any of the paint thatís giving you trouble by soaking the parts in a de-greaser like, ďSuper CleanĒ or ďPurple Power.Ē Both of which can be found at WalMart or Automotive stores. After soaking 12 hours or so, the paint should wipe right off and you can try again after washing, then prepping their surfaces via the scuffing or bonding spray.

Another question-  are the Florlier  parts you got in your Bob Kit actual Tupperware?  Or are they resin cast copies of them? Because washing the parts (resin or otherwise but resin especially) with a dish soap detergent before painting them is another important factor as well. I canít say for certain without seeing photos, but the ďbeading upĒ  you were describing sounds like what happens when thereís release agent, grease, or other dirtiness on the surface of an object which will prevent the paint from adhereing to it.
24
Crow T. Robot / Painting Crow
« Last post by Alex22 on March 25, 2019, 09:58:17 PM »
Hey gang,

First time caller, long time listener:

Iíve got a Bukoski Crow kit Iíve been chipping away at for the last couple of years.

I left off last fall when the weather became too cold to paint. Now that itís starting to warm up again, I want to get back to work!

Anywho, throughout the process, Iíve tried to give him numerous thin coats of his gold base paint. However, on a few pieces (I think the shinier plastic) like the vases and one of the floraliers, the paint seems to bead up in small, but noticeable amounts.

Anyone have any experience with this? Any tips? This didnít happen with my Servo. If I keep painting, could it even out? I feel like the blemishes are too small to sand down.

Thanks in advance!

LLAP.

(Trying and failing to attach photos. Server says it wonít accept my jpegs.)
25
Buy / Sell / Trade / Soap Dish(s) Two Resin Cast!
« Last post by minermark on March 22, 2019, 10:50:40 PM »
Two cast in the last two days, came out perfect, Mold has been on the shelf for a couple years.
Had Four last week and sold them on the Bay.

These two are posted on the Bay as of now.

Still have a bit of 305 Resin left, i may make a few more.
I try to do my best for the Crow builders sourcing parts. Happy Crow building!

Item ID: 132999616093
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Other MST3K Related Bots / Re: Growler
« Last post by Oldeworldsmith on March 20, 2019, 10:03:01 AM »
  :D fastbilly1, you are a miracle worker! Nicely done!
27
Photos Galore! / Crow Servo experimenting
« Last post by minermark on March 18, 2019, 10:51:06 PM »
New Servos came in, picked up a few new ones.
Heavy duty but a tad too much noise on this first run.
Charles T Crow is reminding us of Easter coming up......

https://youtu.be/aBopI5_Whl4   
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Crow T. Robot / Re: Netflix Crow's Arms & Shoulder Joints
« Last post by Oldeworldsmith on March 18, 2019, 11:18:48 AM »
Been reading and following your current Crow project, well done sir !
Read up on this HydroSpan material, very interesting and dam handy it seems.
I would be most interested in resin cast copys of this current Crow, please keep me in mind, id like to help you off-set some of your cost of your R&D.
Thank you very much! I'll certainly keep you in mind. Let's just keep our fingers crossed that I can successfully achieve a decent set of enlarged resin hands when all's said and done.

Speaking of which, here's the progress report:



The molds continue to grow measurably! It's been 19 days since they started their soak and they've been gaining in scale every day. You'll see in the photos, on the right-most side, is a set of the molds I made which weren't mixed as well as they should have been, thus I didn't attempt enlarging them. They've proven useful however as baselines to measure against the growing copies. Also useful have been the cast set of claw parts (left-most side) which allow me to see how much further the molds need to still expand before they're ready for silicone recasting. Based on the progress I'm observing, I'm going to estimate it'll probably still be around another two to three weeks before they're finished. 

:'( Deeeep waiting! Deeeeeeeeeeeeep waiting!

In news unrelated to Crow's arms but still relevant to Netflix Crow in general, I've been fortunate to discover for the first time what I'm going to call the "SledgeRiprock Method" or "Bob Method" of Crow building. Having built my Crow years ago, long before Bob started making and selling his Bot kits, I'd actually never seen or sought out to learn how he managed construction of the inner PVC pipe controls. I just implemented my own method based on the knowledge the bot building community had at the time.

Thankfully, someone shared with me the instructions Bob includes with his Crow kits and it's been a Rosetta Stone (Crow-setta Stone?) for figuring out the rest Netflix Crow. As we've known, they've gone to Bob for parts just like the rest of us and have clearly been assembling their on-screen bots using his construction guidelines too- Which I have to admit now that I've seen them for the first time, are really super simple and effective! I'm sure everyone is reading that and saying, "Duh, yeah. We know."
Hey, cut an old-timer some slack!

The one thing I've been taking my time on is making sure I compare measurements of the PVC sections given in the Crow kit instructions to photo references from the show. Now, I fully believe that every Crow, even those made for the show, are all slightly different. But I did find some sight discrepancies in the lengths of piping that make up the neck and the stalk on which the soap dish is perched to what the recommended length is in those instructions. That's NOT a criticism, mind you! Just an observation based on photo-matching. We've already confirmed Russ made a number of alterations to Bob's initial designs, even though all evidence points to the fact he's still using the same basic method in the PVC pipe controls. But in order to match the best average of what I'm seeing for Netflix Crow in screengrabs and press photos, both lengths of PVC pipe that make up the upper portion of those controls need to be slightly shorter by around a 1/4" to a 1/2".

Again, I don't believe the Crow in the following press photo to be the "one-and-only" standard for his construction. But I've chosen it as my own personal standard to match and you can see what that's given me:



I can only recommend you to look closely at the photos and do what feels & looks best to you! I can take the neck measurements that I wound up settling on and post them if anyone's interested. In the meantime, I'll continue to focus on the arms.
29
Crow T. Robot / Re: Netflix Crow's Arms & Shoulder Joints
« Last post by Dr.cgad on March 18, 2019, 10:53:35 AM »
Nice
30
Other MST3K Related Bots / Re: Growler
« Last post by fastbilly1 on March 17, 2019, 10:09:13 PM »
Me again:
Growlers nose is from a knock off beyblade ripcord - Alibaba image:


This page has an image you can zoom around on to double check:
https://www.toyoos.com/product/bay-blade-fight/

Like most none branded mass produced Chinese products they are sold under a dozen names and often at a stupid mark up (dont ever buy from a dropshipper just get your own Aliexpress account).
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