Author Topic: Painting Crow  (Read 395 times)

Alex22

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Painting Crow
« on: March 25, 2019, 09:58:17 PM »
Hey gang,

First time caller, long time listener:

Iíve got a Bukoski Crow kit Iíve been chipping away at for the last couple of years.

I left off last fall when the weather became too cold to paint. Now that itís starting to warm up again, I want to get back to work!

Anywho, throughout the process, Iíve tried to give him numerous thin coats of his gold base paint. However, on a few pieces (I think the shinier plastic) like the vases and one of the floraliers, the paint seems to bead up in small, but noticeable amounts.

Anyone have any experience with this? Any tips? This didnít happen with my Servo. If I keep painting, could it even out? I feel like the blemishes are too small to sand down.

Thanks in advance!

LLAP.

(Trying and failing to attach photos. Server says it wonít accept my jpegs.)

Oldeworldsmith

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Re: Painting Crow
« Reply #1 on: March 25, 2019, 11:54:43 PM »
Hi there!  :D
First of all, youíre not alone in having picture upload trouble. Are you trying to upload them from your phone? Specifically an iPhone? If so,I found out  the photos arenít actually jpgs until you offload them from the phone, either via computer or other upload. The forum code doesnít seem to like whatever Apple saves the photos as natively.

On to the main issue-
Did you prep the Tupperware parts by lightly scuffing/sanding their surfaces and/or use a bonding spray prior to painting? If not, those steps are almost always essential to getting any paint to stick to those darn Floralier parts.

If not, donít worry! You can easily start over and remove any of the paint thatís giving you trouble by soaking the parts in a de-greaser like, ďSuper CleanĒ or ďPurple Power.Ē Both of which can be found at WalMart or Automotive stores. After soaking 12 hours or so, the paint should wipe right off and you can try again after washing, then prepping their surfaces via the scuffing or bonding spray.

Another question-  are the Florlier  parts you got in your Bob Kit actual Tupperware?  Or are they resin cast copies of them? Because washing the parts (resin or otherwise but resin especially) with a dish soap detergent before painting them is another important factor as well. I canít say for certain without seeing photos, but the ďbeading upĒ  you were describing sounds like what happens when thereís release agent, grease, or other dirtiness on the surface of an object which will prevent the paint from adhereing to it.
« Last Edit: March 26, 2019, 12:02:10 AM by Oldeworldsmith »

Alex22

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Re: Painting Crow
« Reply #2 on: March 26, 2019, 02:00:05 PM »
Yeah I think the iPhone upload was the issue. Hopefully it works from my laptop.

So yeah I did scuff the surfaces with fine sandpaper, clean them with multi-surface windex and painter's tack, and use a gray primer before painting. The rest of the pieces have turned out fine. It's just these three pieces with the shinier luster that look a little grainy. I'm not sure if they're resin or tupperware. Being a bit shinier, I'd imagine they're tupperware.

Thanks for your help!

Oldeworldsmith

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Re: Painting Crow
« Reply #3 on: March 26, 2019, 10:06:17 PM »
Ahhhhh! Yeah, a picture paints a thousand words... And that paint causes a thousand headaches.
But enough of me trying to be funny.

It looks to me like one of two things (or both) could be happening:
-The gold paint is reacting badly to your primer coat
-The gold paint either comes from a badly mixed batch or has gone bad and cured in a chemically incohesive way (less likely but not impossible).

Question: what are the brands/types of primer and gold paint that you used? Are they the same brand or different? A big golden rule (no pun intended) Iíve learned from my years struggling with Crow is that if you are going to use a primer coat and undercoat, always, always, always use the same brand of paint as that which your final coat will be in. In this case, Testors brand.

I canít tell you how many precious and rare cans of Lime Gold Metal Flake Iíve wasted discovering that Testors brand gloss paints do not like to chemically bond & cure fully to Krylon or Rustoleum brand primers & base coats. You get lucky sometimes but at least 8 times out of 10 for me it would either stay forever tacky or leave surface issues like what you have there in your photos.

I canít quote you the exact science behind it, but it has to do with the copyrighted formulas companies use to design their paints to distinguish them chemically from their competitors patents. Thus, each brand mixes and cures to a differently balanced degree of chemicals across the board in all their colors and types so that multiple coats will dry evenly on each other... Within the same brand family that is. Mixing coats from different brands always runs the risk of the base layer causing poor adhesion or failure to cure even if the base layer is fully dry.

Personally, I skip the grey primer stage for the Tupperware parts. Even after the best efforts to prep their surface, the paint will still chip a bit at some point should you happen to bump it good enough. Painting fewer ďfullĒ layers is beneficial for when you need to touch up the spots that chip. Itíll be less thick and the chip will leave less of an indentation- preventing you from having to do a lot of work sanding the surface before touch-ups.

Iíve had very good results simply prepping the Tupperware surfaces, painting a base coat of Testors (standard) Gold, and then proceeding with my final coats of Testors Lime Gold. That regular Testors Gold color is very opaque and goes on fully visible even when sprayed on the black parts. So it acts like a duel primer/base coat.

Again Iíd recommend soaking the parts in the degreasers I mentioned above to remove the paint, clean them thoroughly with water and dish detergent and then try a repaint with the Testors brand colors only.
« Last Edit: March 26, 2019, 10:13:00 PM by Oldeworldsmith »