Testors is incredibly easy to work with and it won't run if you practice proper painting techniques.
Temperature is key. It's best to only paint when it's dry and 55 or above.
Sweeps. Use sweeps. I don't know how many times I've seen nimrods try to point the can at the item and just hold down the trigger. Study and practice automotive paint application techniques and replicate that using spray cans. When you sweep, start at the far left of the object, begin spraying, then move the can past the object and COMPLETELY off to the right side.
Never start and stop spraying your application while the can is pointing at the object. This creates overspray areas that compromise the finish. You should only hold the nozel for about 2-3 seconds while you do a pass. This prevents you from spraying too much paint or not spraying enough pigment in the mixture.
Any time you stop and start spraying again, ALWAYS clear the nozzle by spraying off to the side for a second. This will clear any buildup that might cause runs or uneven pigment distribution.
Also remember that the final finish coat is the one that really matters in terms of completion and accuracy. If you want Tom to be that Metal Flake Red, you only need one good coat of it. The coats underneath can be any gloss red paint. For beginning coats, don't bother with testors at all. Use something that rapid-dries, like automotive touch-up paint. It literally dries within seconds, so that will cut down on your work time a lot.
It doesn't hurt to use a clear coat for the final application. It will help work over any inconsistencies in the final paint application. This also allows you to buff out any overspray spots after you let it set for a few days and fully cure.
My usual application method is this direction: 1500 grit sanding > Ahesion Promoter(acetone spray, basically) > Tamiya white primer(or rustoleum auto primer as a back up) > Dupli-Color or Rustoleum brand basic coat(red, gold, etc) in at least two coats > Two coats of the final color > one coat of sealer, buff and finish after a week of curing. I NEVER use a full enamel as the second coat before the final. There's no reason to. It only needs to tint the primer, it doesn't need to have a full finish.
If you want to lay out the cash, there's a great line called Army Painter. They're basically fast-dry primers that come in assorted colors which are ideal for this sort of thing. They just cost $15 a can at most hobby shops. They're virtually idiot-proof.
I also don't recommend using steel wool to abrade the plastics. Crow's body parts are made from the trademark Tupperware blend of polyurethane and polyethylene, but using steel wool and such will only gouge the plastics. That plastic is not designed to corrode, so anything that rough will just cause bunching and drags on the surface. Instead, use 1500 grit automotive finishing paper. It will give it a soft satin finish that's easier to paint. Once you apply adhesion promoter, the paint should bond fine.
I hope this helps. I'm an experienced painter. I've painted actual cars, models, props, action figures, dioramas, homes, etc etc...
